The Standard Grill @ NYC ***

Bread, Cheese, and Radish

I have mixed feeling about “sceney” places like this. While it is easy to accuse them of contriving a false exclusivity that belies their mediocre-at-best food, something manufactured can nevertheless feel, (and therefore is) real. Like the Waverly Inn, a restaurant such as this one relies on the simple human emotion of envy. Taking reservations only two weeks in advance and even then only giving out tables to preferred and “high profile” customers creates a certain atmosphere that makes the rest of us just a little bit frenzied; if something is difficult to obtain, we of course want it all the more.

I actually had a grand time. I think that it is charmingly tongue-in-cheef for place so “exclusive” that a reservation is unobtainable to serves peasant fare like radishes and parmigiano reggiano, and I was pleasantly surprised at how attentive the service was despite the general chaos of the Saturday night dinner rush. It was also lovely to run into several colleagues and acquiantances entirely by chance. As consumers we are united by our choices, and tonight we were all choosing (or at least trying) to be cool. One can eat and drink almost anywhere, but it is only in a few select places where gaining entry involves seeking approval.  

Although I try to avoid too many places like this on principle, my advice to anyone seeking admittance is plan. Why allow the possibility of rejection (and therefore embarassment) when a confirmed reservation is just a phone call away? If you ring far enough ahead or,  (if a restaurant is particularly tough) earnestly present yourself in person, the oppression of long wait times and the accompanying ego hits are happily bypassed.  

Details: 848 Washington St (little W 12th & 13th) New York, NY‎ (+1-212-645-4100)‎