Juliet @ NYC ***
Fig & Duck Skewers, Swordfish Skewers with Chermoula and Orange
The ascendant popularity of places like The Spotted Pig in NYC and The Oak in London suggests that the gastropub is here to stay. Having attended the sneak peek of Todd English’s Juliet thanks to The Supper Club NY, I am pleased to note the emergence of a new concept, the gastroclub.
Stepping out of a cab at the corner of 10th Ave and W 21st, I scanned the desserted Chelsea street with apprehension. Peering into one desserted art gallery after another, I began to worry that I had taken down the wrong details. Three quarters of the way down the block however, I breathed a sigh of relief upon observing the tell-tale stocky profile of the evening’s bouncer. Three-inch patent leather booties required me to grip my companion’s arm tightly as I navigated the iron staircase, but after names were pronounced and the golden list checked off, I was treading on air. Passing through the curtained entrance, one emerges into a cavernous space reminiscent of London’s Crystal nightclub with a floor and walls that glisten with iridescent tiles. Sipping a Honey Love cocktail (Whiskey, Fresh Grapefruit Juice, Honey, Ginger Ale) provided by the evening’s alcohol sponsor (ri)1 , I surveyed the scence. Silk-lined banquettes were set for the dinner service, but it was easy to imagine those same banquettes supporting the stilettos of libation-loosened ladies later in the night.
In the interest of adhereing to the restaurant critic code of conduct, I shall refrain from passing judgement on the food until I have a chance to sample it following the official opening. Suffice it to say that despite the visual appeal of chermoula that glowed a luminous orange under the black lights and an apple baklava that made me long to visit Lebanon, I imagine that the Middle Eastern-inspired menu will not be at the forefront of patrons’ minds when placed in such a stimulating space. Gallery owners of W 21 st watch out! Nightime will not remain tranquil much longer.
Details: 539 W 21st St (bet 10th & 11th) New York, NY 10011
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[...] While Wallsé appeared inviting, its rarified atmosphere did not sit well with the Austrian cuisine that I am accustomed to associate with boistrous beer halls and rowdy group dining. Though themed restaurants such as London’s Tiroler Hut play up on cliché, at least they succeed in achieving the end goal, a really good time had by all. If I were in the mood to dine in a place where other patrons’ outfits are more memorable than the food I would go to a gastropub or club. [...]
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