Momofuku Ko @ NYC

Grilled Trout with Dill Potatoes Radish and Swiss Chard

A friend recently reminded me that one of America’s most positive attributes is a little thing called democracy. In a city that thrives on the manufactured exclusivity of places like the Waverly Inn, Ko’s no-execptions policy of online-only reservations made one week in advance of the dining date gives any mouse-slinger quick-to-the-click access to David Chang’s 14-seat inner sanctum. Fairness is followed so strictly that for fear that a unsavory individual might sell his or her allotted hours, photo ID and paper printouts must be produced, not to mention the $150 fine for a no-show.  The process might be democratic, but must it also be so uncivilized? Perhaps the charm of restaurants like Jean George’s V, and of members-only institutions in general is that even if they are not accessible to the general public, once one becomes a member or a favored regular, a relationship is formed. In the months that I have spent in Manhattan, I have noticed that foodies and scenesters alike are constant victims of the marketing manipulators that would have us all seeking treatment for anxiety. If the customers aren’t always off-balance and uncertain of being granted the privilege of patronage, then the PR staff are not doing their jobs no? Perhaps some enjoy the thrill of the chase, but I am beginning to long for London and other locales where I can take comfort in familiarity and experience acceptance without the fear of a fall from grace.  That said, the rich smoothness of Momofuku Ko’s Shaved Foie Gras over Riesling Jelly (achieved by freezing the block of foie gras and and grating it like cheese) would melt the most jaded of hearts and the open-kitchen omakase experience certainly merits trans-Atlantic travel.

Details: 163 1st Ave near 10th St New York, NY 10003 (+1-212-500-0831)